Wine Tasting At Rainbow Ranch Lodge in Big Sky, MT

The dress code for diners at Montana’s Rainbow Ranch Lodge is “however you feel comfortable, from tie to tie-dye,” says proprietor Patrick Hurd. And although the elegant restaurant boasts a sophisticated menu, extensive wine list, and state-of-the-art wine cellar, its approach to wine is equally unpretentious. “The mark of a good wine is simply whether you like it—not the price tag or what kind of press it has received or what I tell you about it,” says Hurd, who has been involved with the restaurant since it opened six years ago and is responsible for assembling its award-winning wine list.

When Hurd landed in Big Sky—“the middle of nowhere, Montana”—he was eager to create a dining experience that would astonish visitors to the remote locale. “My goal was to have people who enjoy food and wine come in from New York or Los Angeles and think, ‘I can’t believe this restaurant is here,’” he says.

The décor of the intimate dining room and lounge is upscale western, enhanced by breathtaking views of the Gallatin River. The menu emphasizes locally raised beef, lamb, and veal; fresh seafood is flown in from around the world and featured as a special. The wine list has grown over the years from 40 selections to 650, ranging from a broad sampling of American Cabernets, Chardonnays, and Sauvignon Blancs under $40 all the way up to French Burgundies well over $2,000. Wine in also sold by the glass.

“An excellent meal involves pairing quality fresh ingredients with a great wine that complements the flavors,” says Hurd. At Rainbow Ranch, he suggests starting with the Sesame-Crusted Jonah Crab Cakes, which he would pair with a German Riesling or an Oregon Pinot Gris. “These light, refreshing wines take the heat away and balance the flavors,” he says.

For the main course, Hurd is particularly enthusiastic about Chef Michael McAuliffe’s Pan-Roasted Angus Tenderloin Wrapped in Pancetta with Sauteed Yukon Potatoes and Apple and Foie Gras Butter. “The sweetness of the apple helps round out the butter and the foie gras, and all the tastes flow together,” he says. He recommends pairing a solid California Cabernet or a French Bordeaux with this dish. “The 1997 Spottswoode Cabernet, for example, has nice tannins but opens up and becomes smooth and easy-drinking,” he says. “It’s not too big but has enough body so that it won’t get lost with the flavors.” The 1995 Chateau Duhart-Milon Bordeaux would also work well, he shays—“both of these wines are made to be enjoyed with food.”

Rainbow Ranch offers dessert wines by the glass, such as a light, spritzy Nivole, which would pair well with the decadent warm chocolate tart, or a sweeter and more syrupy Castello Banfi, a perfect counterpoint to the frozen crème brule.

While Hurd wants his guests to relax, enjoy the riverside view and fine cuisine, and drink what they like, he nevertheless encourages experimentation. “People should be adventuresome because there are so many great wines out there,” he says.