March/April 2007
By Everett Potter
Travel Notes: Restaurant Rainbow Ranch, Big Sky, Mont
Your average Montana roadhouse does not boast 10,000-bottle wine cellar that looks like it was airlifted from burgundy. But then Rainbow Ranch is anything but average. The former fishing camp 15 minutes south of Big Sky has been refurbished in the past decade by proprietor Patrick Hurd, with a lodge and some well-appointed cabins overlooking the Gallatin River. But it’s the kitchen that makes it a worthwhile detour from the slopes. In the dining room, chef Tommy Donohoe, who’s done time at Napa Valley’s French Laundry, offers up a carefully orchestrated repast with a menu focusing on super-fresh ingredients. In fact, if it isn’t from Montana, it’s been FedEx-ed in that morning. After a day spent skiing the Dictator Chutes, start with an appetizer of bison meatballs served in a marinara sauce. Then move on to red wine-braised Montana lamb shank. Hurd will help you navigate the wine list, which ranges from eminently drinkable (and affordable) finds such as Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria from Siciliy to every vintage of Romanee Conti from 1994 to 2004–wines, mind you, than command four figures. Just don’t plan on first tracks the next day.
800-937-4132; rainbowranch.com–Everett Potter
